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Answer 1:

I would continue if I flopped an open-ended straight draw with my pair. Also if there was only one over card to my pair and based on the previous action I thought my pair might be good, I might proceed.  It also depends on the amount of money in the pot and how cheap I could see the turn. For example, let’s say eight people call before the flop and I call with a pair of sixes. Flop comes down 742o and it gets checked around and then one player bets. I probably would take off a card and try to hit a six or a five on the turn. There is a possibility that the flop better has a pair of fours, but even if he/she has a pair of sevens, the pot odds combined with the chance that I might have the best hand merit a call.  Generally, you need to have an over pair to the board, flop a set, or flop an open-ended straight draw to continue beyond the flop.

Answer 2:

I always pay to see. It is a bad move. Period. But, there’s a reason why they call it gambling. You have to have some fun with it.  That’s what gets my blood flowing.

Answer 3:

“It depends.” In a strong game, you have JJ on the button. Someone limps under the gun, you raise, and everyone folds except the limper calls. Flop comes KT2 rainbow. Limper bets. In a loose-aggressive game, you have JJ on the button. 6 players call in front of you, you raise, the small blind re-raises, you cap, and everyone stays (total of 32 small bets in the pot). Flop comes KT2 rainbow. Small blind (a maniac) bets. Three callers. In a passive 6-12 game, you have JJ on the button. 4 players call in front of you, you raise, everyone calls. Flop comes KT2 rainbow. Big blind bets. Two callers. I’m taking a card off in situations 1 and 2, certainly. 3 is iffy; depends on how well your opponents play on later rounds.

Answer 1:

It all depends on how well you expect to do in this game. If you figure to win 1 bb per hour than $2000 would be enough.

Answer 2:

$500 in a 5/10 game is hopelessly short. Even a very good poker player, making all the right moves could easily lose that in a couple hours. I’ll echo the recommendation of $2000. In fact I would feel more comfortable with $3000. Another option is to start with less but contributes a buy-in each month towards your bankroll. Those ways if you bust out this month you can start playing again next month with a fresh buy-in. If you are a successful player you will eventually amass enough to withstand any reasonable losses.

Answer 3:

Scarne’s rule of thumb is: 60 times the max bet. That would equal $ 600. I was in Vegas recently & asked the buy-in / bankroll question to a friend of a friend who is a high roller. The highest he ever placed in WSOP was 5th. His immediate / no hesitation response were 100 times the max bet. This would equal $ 1000. In general, I feel that Hold ‘em requires a slightly higher bankroll than stud. At a 5-10 Hold ‘em table, I would buy in for a rack of red cheque ($ 500). I would then be prepared to reload TWICE, each time with an additional rack of red cheque ($ 500). Anything above $ 1500 at a 5-10 table, I’d walk away.  Remember, this is ONLY 5-10 Hold ‘em.

Answer 1:

I have played against pros in $1-$5 stud games. However, you need to keep a couple of things in mind bucko – all pros aren’t the same. For every big-time high limit pro, you’ll find a dozen lower limit guys who are just scraping by, or trying to supplement their retirement or income from another job. In addition, being a pro does not automatically make you a good player and there are times having a pro in a game can even be an advantage.  Bottom-line – I never worry about pros, props ro off duty dealers – just play your best game.

Answer 2:

I guess what I’m really getting at is to find out if pros (or we could call them successful, consistent winners, or enlightened/experienced players, etc.) actually make it a practice of bothering with the lowest limit games.  I’ve now had one year of study and practice at 1-2, 2-4, and occasionally 3-6 stud. At this stage it seems to me that even if I do everything right and am sharper than my competition, it’s still like a crap-shoot due to the rake and the fact that it’s hard to move anyone out of a hand. I’m wondering if people who actually understand the game well enough to make income from poker feel the same way and simply avoid these games. When I move up to 4-8 or 5-10 it is going to be a significant investment for me to play, so I want to do it at the right time and for the right reasons.

Answer 3:

I’m not a pro, but I regularly play $5-$10 stud with a $5 rake and I win an average of 1.4 big bets per hour. It is the lowest stud in the casino I frequent and has the worst players. People keep telling me you can’t beat the rake in the smaller games and bad players make it a total crapshoot, but it isn’t true for me. With a 10% rake, you simply have to be much tighter and much better than your opponents.  I find at this limit, game selection is critical. I also play the higher limit games and occasionally HE and Omahaand I find
they are much harder to beat.  If I wanted to make an easy living as a pro, I
would probably play the majority of the time at the $5-$10 stud tables. As it is, I blow all my low limit winnings in the bigger games and at the craps table and make my living elsewhere.  I don’t want to turn fun into work.

Answer 1:

Sounds like you’re thinking of Commerce. The food is good, the game selection is great, but the rake is a bit high. For 10-20 expect to pay $6 per 1/2 hour. 15-30 – $7. 20-40 – $8.HollywoodParkhas a 15-30 game that is usually pretty good and a sporadic 25-50 game. The food at HP is just as good as Commerce and has a comp menu and $2 regular dinners. I preferHollywoodParkbecause of the $3 flat drop in the 15-30 game.

Answer 2:

The Commerce has fabulous action and the BEST food anywhere. Plenty of games. The Bike, with its new remodel also has plenty of action. HollywoodParkis another option. These would be your best spots at finding stud at the limits you mentioned.  Sorry I missed you when you were inLVearlier this month. Will you be at ESCARGOT at Crystal Park later this month?

Answer 3:

HPC also has a 10/20 stud game on the board now, but I don’t know how often it goes. There is often a 20/40 stud game now too, as well as a regular 20/40 hi/lo/8 game.

Answer 1:

Something that happens. You played it perfectly. He had the best hand on the flop, you had the nuts on the turn, but got outdrawn. Some might even say you should have re-re-raised on the river with your second nut hand. The river 4 is the second-best card you could have possibly hoped for.

Answer 2:

Not a darn thing you could have done, unless you wanted to muck your KK on the flop, when the action indicated you were behind two pair or a set at that point.  In low limit HE, when someone flops a set, you’re never getting rid of him in the hand, no matter what you do or what the board shows. You probably could have shown him your 3 kings on the turn, and he still might not have folded. Someone hit a one-outer on the river to beat you, it hurts, but that’s holdem, move on to the next hand. In the long run, you’ll make plenty of money from people who call raises with 44 against your KK.

Answer 3:

Just to nitpick — while otherwise “me-tooing” — it’s worth pointing out /why/ the Four is the second-best card our Hero could hope for, given that three other cards (the case King, a Deuce, or a Trey) leave him with the mortal nuts. It’s because, given the action on the flop, you /want/ a lower House out
there. This time the Hero lost (and he lost two bets less than I would have, BTW, assuming I didn’t trash the Kings on the flop, which is a fairly good assumption), but next time — and the time after that, and the time after that — he’ll crush the other guy into pulp. I’ve seen low-limit players go nine or ten bets with the worst Full House possible. The case King is better because it gives the Hero the mortal nuts /and/ puts a lower House out there … plus, what low-limit player is going to credit runner-runner quad Kings before dropping half a rack on them? BTW, to nitpick my own nitpick, it’s arguable that an Eight or Nine is a tie with a Four in Hoping For Rank. On the one hand, a decent player might play pockets Eights or Nines while tossing Fours, which makes the quads slightly more likely. On the other hand, a bigger Full House is more likely to go more bets.  I think it’s a toss-up, myself.

Answer 1:

Well, you saved a bet on the end. I assume it was the raise on the river that convinced you the fellow had a bigger set if not top set. I could not have mucked at that time. As you know you have to be virtually certain you’re beat to make that play profitable because you’re saving one bet versus a huge pot. In retrospect, could you have gotten out earlier? Did you begin to believe that maybe your set wasn’t good before you got to the river? Once again, it would be very hard for me to lay down this hand. I generally have a cutoff of 88 as the lowest pair I’ll raise with
UTG.  Obviously, this can vary depending on the game and my image. If it were me that this had happened to, my thinking would be whether or not I was playing too aggressively with 77 in an early position. If I were to be at all critical I would argue that choosing to play this hand in that position was the bad decision.

Answer 2:

Take this FWIW from someone who is far from an expert limit holdem player. It’s been a while since I looked at the starting hand strategy on your site, but isn’t raising under the gun with 7-7 a bit maniacal? For the rest of the hand, one can argue for and against playing faster on the flop or turn instead of waiting for the river. I usually like to put the question to them early in a big pot. On the river, you could have lost the same two bets by betting and calling his raise, and if he’d had A-8 you’d be really sorry you had not played it that way.  But good read on the laydown.

Answer 3:

With pre-flop getting capped I’m suspicious of A-A. An A on the flop and I’m check calling the whole way. Of course this is based on the $2-5 spread games I’m used to. Not too many players would go to the cap with less than A-A. Now a $3-5 game full of Asian gamblers might be a different story.

Answer 1:

If he’s been going all in frequently then he’s been doing it with some pretty weak hands. On his part, doing that when the flinds are still pretty small is really stupid. Your AQ was likely a huge favorite. I’m surprised his hand was even as good as it was.

Answer 2:

No way, muck it. If he is raising too often all in wait until you have at least a pair. What are you going to lose, 4 or 6 chips, forget about it.

Answer 3:

Ace Queen of hearts heads up is a tremendous hand. Especially with your opponent raising a lot. You can’t wait for a big pocket pair so put it in and let’s gamble.

Answer 1:

If you are 80% sure you can beat him you should bet EVERY time.

Answer 2:

When you raised him onFifth Street, you said he “looked” then called. Did you mean he looked at his cards or at you? If you meant his cards, I think that’s a pretty clear tell that he didn’t have trip queens. Would a loose passive player slow play trip queens to your raise or your bet onSixth Street? I wouldn’t think so. Would he check a flush or even trip queens on the river? He’d have to be awfully passive to do so if he feared your unlikely full house. I think you missed a bet. By the way, it was good to meet you the other day, I hope you had a profitable trip.

Answer 3:

If you’re trying for an “aggressive” image (even if it goes unremarked by most at the table) you must do this. The only downside is a decision concerning the possible raise. Sometimes you will not only be asking yourself afterwards if you “lost a bet” but if your opponent out of the blue decides to bluff-raise you might even have lost two. At worst you will have lost the one bet of calling his non-bluff raise.

Answer 1:

Technically because his hand did not touch the muck he legitimally won the hand. However, why did the dealer give him back his hand? When a player throws his cards away face down after being shown a hand it is because he does not want to reveal what he was playing and the dealer always just puts them in the muck. May be this player asked the dealer to turn his cards over or him and you didn’t hear? This is the only reason I can think for why the dealer acted this way, otherwise this dealer is an idiot and you should never tip him again.

Answer 2:

House rules prevail. *Usually* if surrendered face-down it’s all over for him but in some places it depends on whether they hit the muck pile (or in some cases the board cards) – the dealer’s touch is also usually considered “fatal”. Whether you should have protested depends on what kind of image you want to leave with a frequent opponent. Whenever this happens to me I try to insure that whichever hand won gets the pot. If I’m convinced that the proper cards are shown (or even seen by others) I will try to see to it that he gets the pot. Cards speak as far as I’m concerned and the kind of “rules are rules” mindset that punishes an honest mistake escapes me entirely. Technically you might get away with the pot by meticulous rule interpretation but you should have conscience trouble in the case described.

Answer 3:

General rule of thumb… When a player throws his cards face down in a forward motion, the dealer should immediately muck them (killing the hand)… Gray area… if they dealer thinks the player made an attempt to show the cards face up, and for some reason they landed face down, he should call the floor for a decision. If the floor thinks there is reasonable evidence, he might let the hand be turned over and play. In your case, it sounds like a dealer not paying attention… he should have mucked the hand.

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